Né dans la Rue

The latest artwork from the changing exhibition outside the Fondation Cartier Né dans la Rue (Born in the Street) Graffiti Taxonomy exhibition until 29 November.

Apollo

Apollo at the back of Denfert Rochereau RER Station is a rare thing in Paris: it houses a large, open balcony which is, given its location at the top of a train station and at the eastern end of the busy Denfert Rochereau crossroads, also remarkably quiet.

The terrace is a lovely oasis of quiet and calm outdoors - a summer evening outside at a restaurant where you can talk to your companions without the distractions of ambulance sirens and pedestrian fashion is a rare thing indeed. I secretly think we also like it because the sheer vastness of the space reminds me of home - a bit like sitting amongst the tall buildings at the Roof Bar at the Skygarden in Sydney, except you are really only one story up from street level (although, NB. to the designers - the astro turf really has to go...)




The food is very decent and the service attentive and friendly. We are always seduced by the menu formule (a set price for a specific entrée, main and dessert) as it is often far more economical and I am the most indecisive person on earth when it comes to food. Basically I want to try it all. God help us if we get a waiter who cannot make a recommendation... The formule takes out all of this drama (although it is sometimes not the best thing the restaurant has to offer) and means we get to order before the kitchen closes.



Our formule had a very good meaty mushroom with parsley jus entrée which was sufficiently buttery (but not overly so) and the perfect amount of garlic. It was topped with a perfectly cooked egg with runny yolk. Our main was grilled fish and vegetables in a dark soupy broth. The slow roasted cherry tomatoes on the side were excellent and the fish well-cooked but the dark broth was far too salty and muddy for my tastes and the veg overcooked.



Disappointing main, but the Chocolate Mousseux dessert was well worth it (the formule allowed you to order off the menu for dessert - happy days!!). The warm spongey outside gave way to a gooey chocolate inside and was well matched with a caramel ice cream. We also chose a spiced poached Pear and grapes with a gingerbread snap which I thought would be good for the warm autumnal evening. The flavours were good but it was cold (deliberately so) and left me regretful we didn't get another mousseux chocolat. Next time.

Nina

Ah, Nina. I love you.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tAv1FDpdnmE

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=22kPiPILteQ

Five good things that happened today

1. I went to Quatrehomme cheese shop and bought the most perfect piece of Comté cheese which the man expertly cut with a cheese wire, wrapped it and put it into a lovely paper bag with handles. Altogether more alluring than shopping at the supermarché.

2. I walked the entire length of Rue de Tolbiac until it became Rue D'Alesia. One hour of walking. Resisted the Velib...

3. Saw The September Issue and may have fallen in love with Grace Coddington.

4. Saw two elderly men yelling at each other in the street and then one grabbed the other one by the neck and kissed him on the cheek.

5. Have a whole, ripe pineapple in the fridge...

My cheese bag:

La Suisse

Six days mountain-biking in glorious, green and sunny Switzerland nearly rendered me permanently blackened and bruised. Fortunately, I heal and (mostly) learn lessons quickly. Charging down steep and technical slopes on a rented bike on the first day on a bike (if you exclude the Parisian Velib, which we do) for nearly 18 months makes for one scratched-up chick. But pain is forgotten and scratches heal and now all I remember is the mountains, the laughs, and the incredible food at the chalet at Bike Verbier.



Thanks to my affable and patient British biking companions and to the wonderful Lucy who gave me many a sneaky tutorial, a well-timed encouraging word ("Don't look round the corner, just keep riding it!!") and an even better-timed slice of afternoon cake, I made it through the days. Our evenings were spent outside under the stars eating lots of incredible food, telling stories and nodding off into our glasses of wine.



Yes, french Switzerland was postcard perfect, the people friendly although slightly incomprehensible (my French is not quite up to dialects, yet...) and the riding superb.

It would be remiss of me not to include a pic of a friendly bell-laden cow:




And a shot of a lovely cobblestoned town:



And a cartwheel in a field: